The thought of waking up to the sound of waves gently crashing against the sandy shoreline, another morning hymn from Barn Swallows perching on palm fronds and the freshest of breezes wafting through the extensive beach cottages is every nature lover’s dream.
For many travelers around Uganda, destination Kalangala is the ideal place for this set-up, not because the Entebbe peninsula beaches wouldn’t measure up, there is just something about being 60 kilometers away from the mainland – roaming through a 9,103 square kilometre, 84 island-archipelago elevated at 1,240m above sea level – that heightens the wanderlust.
For every human who has experienced the dizzying luxury of Kalangala’s high-end hotels and exquisite service, it’s almost impossible to imagine touring the island any other way.
It is, however, not every day that a common tourist, as the local dialect puts it more perfectly “muntu wa wansi” will have USD 150 for a night’s stay at every bourgeois traveler’s desired cottage at the grand Minjz Palm Beach Hotel, The Address, Brovad Sands Lodge, Victoria Forest Resort or the beautiful Mirembe Resort Beach Hotel among others.
It should be known, however, that budget travelers can still have the best of adventures in Kalangala, stretching each penny for maximum fun and pleasure. I would know, because l have had the best of both worlds.
The high-end experience
My maiden voyage to the Island District, fondly referred to as “Ssese” Islands (derived from a tsetse fly infestation eons ago that birthed the code name ‘Ssese’), was a luxurious experience, thanks to my work’s fringe benefits.
MV Brovad, for a traveler on a shoestring budget, isn’t a plausible sailing option. “Transportation to the Islands must be a puzzle for non-islanders” the thought ran back and forth as I basked in the evening sun, up on the sky-blue deck of the floating bliss. I didn’t know better.
Following intense moments of high waves and strong winds half way through the sail, docking at the Brovad Sands jetty as twilight dimmed was pure relief.
Lights and more lights, in their numerous shapes and sizes, along the boardwalk, at cottage porches, inside immaculately manicured hedges, lining the green lanes, the swimming pool and the silent backyards. Everything looks a bit more sophisticated as the lights come on and with it, comes a hefty bill – that’s a fact, not a budget traveler’s thought.
Then came the buffets; sizzling meats, bright green broccoli florets and tenderly blanched cauliflowers, creamy mashed potatoes and honey-glazed drumsticks, heavy mock tails and an assortment of mouthwatering local dishes – dipping sauces galore.
Again, not a plausible option for a budget traveler.
24-hour room service, cottages that are nothing short of paradise with their squeaky clean everything – mirrors that know no bubble stain, bathroom walls that could pass for an ivory kitchen counter, pillows stuffed with the softest fiber and king size beds with white linen that remind you of class.
If wishes were horses, surely I would vacation at Brovad Sands each month.
But who, in the history of travel, ever said one needed to break the bank to afford true adventure? Well, either there is none, or their notion holds no water. My second time to Kalangala, my entire 3 nights 4 days stay budget was well under the cost of a weekend at Brovad Sands. My enjoyment, however, 3 times more!
My recent girls trip to the islands was on an even tighter budget, but the happiness it brought me was immeasurable.
An authentic budget trip breakdown
As my good girlfriend Syndia and I settled down for dinner at one of the local restaurants in Lutoboka village – semi permanent housing, white melamine plates that have seen better days, ‘stainless steel’ cutlery that was light as a feather, gray-ish brown tablecloth that could pass for my grandma’s head wrap, and a bird whose mad and wattle nest hung above us – I joked that we didn’t have to practice dining etiquette.
“Right?, no 8 pieces of cutlery flooding the table,” Syndia chipped in.
As we dug in – a platter of tasty fries, 3-egg omelette on the side, a scoop of vegetable salad and spoonfuls of spaghetti, tomato and her accompanying chilli sauce bottles before us – I remembered the seriousness at the dinner table back at Brovad.
Our dim-lit table here was full of chatter, laughter and it all felt right, homely. A dinner plate and a cold coke, my bill was Shs 6,000.
Before returning to our shared abode at an old beach house – Kingfisher Resort – which cost us Shs 40,000 per night (meaning we were splitting at Shs 20,000 each) we marched into one of the local bars which was blasting the latest music on the African continent. Each beer cost Shs 4,000. I’m loyal to TuskerLite, even if that means drinking it at room temperature because there was none in the fridge. My bill at the bar was Shs 8,000.
At about 11pm, we decided to go moon-gazing. Picture two adult females wrapped in shawls, swinging back and forth at the locally made wood and nylon string swings, right in the front yard of an old (I won’t say dilapidated) beach house, enjoying the scenic sight as the moon cast its light on the still waters of Lake Victoria, creating a glistening trail.
We unanimously stated that the moment reminded us of a scene in Twilight’s Breaking Dawn I, when Bella joined Edward for a night swim at Isle Esme, moments before they consummated their soon-to-be disastrous marriage. And this giddying bliss, we didn’t have to pay a coin for, just like many other priceless moments we had during our three-day getaway.
The wind was blowing in more intense bouts after midnight, the frogs and crickets weren’t letting up on the screeching either, it was time to retire to our ‘chambers’.
Then it hit me, there was no water heater, so a warm shower necessitated calling the property handler for a kettle, which we deemed inconveniencing at that hour. The decision to take a shower (or not) in the middle of the night, in the freezing cold Kalangala, rested upon two adults – inconsequential either way, we agreed.
Budget travel has its down sides and that was one on the few that we encountered. We later realized we hadn’t been given any bathing soap, immediately reminiscing the plethora of bathroom essentials available at any of those luxury establishments meters away from our could-do-better facility.
PS: Facial cleanser has never been so handy, so multipurpose for me!
Dawn showed up again, as it always does, with the sun shining on the vast stretch of the waters, birds singing – barely harmonizing, pelicans diving for breakfast and islanders going about their day in the far distance.
To the swings, I rushed. Ditching the sandals for a feel of the wet sand beneath my longing soles. A few minutes in and a churning stomach called for immediate action. Finding breakfast was a mission to be embarked on expeditiously. We had a long day of sightseeing ahead so only a fool would miss the most important meal of the day.
“I have fish, matooke and cassava. There is a bit of rice too,” Mama Pretty told us as we walked into her restaurant, same building as our previous eatery.
I asked about the price considering it was “fish”. In Kampala, a meal with the mentioned servings would cost you not less than Shs 8,000 to 10,000. Mama Pretty smiled, “it’s Shs 3,000.”
In a minute, the first platter arrived, white melamine seated on a silver serving tray, steam swirling from the hot katogo – to my surprise. I looked at my friend and we were equally pleased. Full platter, visually inviting and pleasant to the taste buds. I washed it down with a sprite and thanked Mama Pretty for her service. My belly was thankful too, it was a good breakfast!
My bill was Shs 4,000.
Our day’s excursions included going to what’s endearingly referred to as the Billionaire’s View, a few kilometers out of the main town. Kalaya would be next where we were to see the oil palm fields, then to a white stone beach whose name we knew not. Boda boda rides must have been our most expensive pointers, we spent about Shs 45,000 on our Point A to Point B movements through the trip.
We paid no coin for many of the day’s destinations, except the Shs 50,000 spent on the jetski. We climaxed our wanders with a relaxing swim in the lake at a private property we ended up at, trying to locate the elusive white stone beach (our boda boda guys took us to two wrong places so we decided to wing it – follow the shoreline.)
After eating our snacks, seated on a huge rock sprawling into the lake, Syndia decided it was time to “let loose.”
After all, what can be more freeing than an infinity stretch of water mass whose shores only see humans from time to time? Crop tops came off, so did shorts. Swimsuits took over and cameras clicked away. We practiced floating in the shallows and enjoyed some naughty moments – waving at speed boats cruising away (Syndia’s idea) as marine police officers patrolled the lake.
All of this adventure was free, including a juicy offer from one of the fishermen to give us a tour of the lake on his engine boat at no coast.
We, however, declined. It was 6:13pm and we needed to find our way to the main road, back to the nearest town of Mweena, and connect to Brovad Sands where we intended to spend the rest of the evening watching the sun set. We both had sat on that beach before for the same cause and we wanted to re-live the moment.
By 6:48pm we were signing in at Brovad, and much as the sunset wasn’t as bright as we wanted it, it was still a good time for great silhouette shots. As dusk fell, we kissed the jetty lights goodbye and headed out for dinner at our local restaurant.
“Same as yesterday,” we told the waitress.
Another round of beer at the bar, another round of trash-talking men, employment and old school mothers, and for Syndia, one last quick dance before we departed for the mainland early the next morning.
We were at the ever-so-reliable MV Kalangala by 7:45am, light showers honoring our departure after days of being proud secondary islanders. We had the best time ever and as usual, we hoped for another trip together, however long that might take.
MV Kalangala charges Shs 10,000 for ordinary and Shs 14,000 for first class section. This is arguably the cheapest option for anyone planning a trip to Kalangala on a shoestring budget.
Overall, the trip cost me less than Shs 200,000 largely because we shared accommodation (still really comfortable), we minimized impulsive spending (I almost bought a floral beach shirt at Shs 25,000 but stuck to the budget), we accessed service from the cheaper, local suppliers (if we opted for bigger restaurants, a meal would go for Shs 25,000 to Shs 35,000. Beer at high end bars goes for Shs 8,000, local bars welcomed us with open arms, at Shs 4,000 a bottle.)
Bonus tip for budget trip
Kalangala’s accommodation facilities are not stretched so far apart from each other. Budget accommodation facilities lie next to the high-end establishments. This means one is able to stay at Kalangala Pearl Beach Resort and book a jet ski ride at Brovad Sands Lodge.
You can reside at Islands Peak Motel but still enjoy the luxurious happy hour at The Address. Make flexibility your buddy.
Till the next adventure, cheers!
