Apart from my perception of the place, mostly influenced by what I had read or watched, it felt like the moment a virgin bride walks into her marital bedroom; ready for anything and everything, the good, the bad and everything in between – a Karamoja excursion.
—
It’s a rainy Thursday morning in Kampala, one of the many moments when city dwellers curse even the lightest of showers, especially after singling out a particular outfit days prior in preparation for the 9-hour drive to Karamoja.
Nothing inconveniences a hustler (you’re allowed to read ‘certified muyilibi’) like an additional shilling on the uber – counting every long minute by the traffic lights and dreading the estimated trip cost going up even by a mere Shs 2000. Such was the situation but once the travel bug bites you, a drenched cardigan is inconsequential as long as you make it to the set off point in time – a boda boda is not off limits.
All gathered at the Uganda Museum, the State Minister for Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities Hon. Martin Mugarra Bahinduka who has actively been part of every Explore Uganda campaign, graced yet another domestic tourism drive dubbed “Explore Pian Upe and Lokichar Game Reserves” organized by private tour operator Isaiah Jobs Rwanyekiro, CEO Breathtaking Uganda in collaboration with the Tourism Ministry, Miss Uganda Foundation and Miss Tourism Uganda.
The campaign aimed at giving the much-needed highlight to the Karamoja region and the tourist attractions that the two game reserves have. The Miss Tourism and Miss Uganda queens would soon be ditching the heels for comfortable footwear as they explored the natural wonders Karamoja is endowed with.
Over 60 people participated in the 4-day tour, rubbing shoulders with the youthful honourable, the reigning Miss Uganda Hannah Karema, legendary music producer Magic Washington and other tourism sector personalities such as Mr. Steven Mayanja who ran the show during his heydays as a tour operator.
Out of Kampala, In for Adventure
Three hours into the drive up north, we had well forgotten about the bustle of the city and its potholes pregnant with murky waters.
Above us, the clear blue sky beamed and we smiled at the heavens for the promise of a brighter day ahead.
Travelers in the Van I was aboard pulled out all tribes of sunglasses as I settled for my ever-so handy photochromic pair. Hoodies coming off and the wretched crocs taking over, we were set for a long road trip to the enchanting land of the Karamojong.
People told all kinds of stories – unbound by the unfamiliarity of some new faces as we cruised on the clearer highways; past vast rice fields, sunflower gardens that triggered memories of ancient greeting cards, hills receding into the far away horizon and lone walkers going about their business under the blazing afternoon heat.
If anything was a clear “welcome to Karamoja” poster, it was the round, bouncy skirts worn by Karamojong women, the thick, checkered shawls draped over the shoulders of the men. I finally put face to this unique way of dressing, my eyes following the rhythm of the skirt as a young lady walked about, her silhouette clear-cut in the setting sun.
By the time we entered the Reserve in Nakapiripirit, the sun had gone down and an unfamiliar twilight was upon me – it was my first time in Karamoja and apart from my perception of the place – mostly influenced by what I had read or watched, it felt like the moment a virgin bride walks into her marital bedroom. I was ready for anything and everything, the good, the bad and everything in between.
Before it was upgraded into a wildlife reserve and renamed Pian Upe in 1964, the area was an animal sanctuary designated in 1958. Sitting on 2,043 square kilometers, Pian Upe is part of the Mt. Elgon Conservation Area. It is bordered by Kwen District in the South, Kumi in the West, Napak in the North and Amudat in the East.
My First Night
After the men (referred to as ‘Matooke eaters’ by Producer Washington with whom I had stayed in the van watching the shit show) finally succeeded in pushing the coaster out of a ditch off the driveway to the Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve headquarters, we checked in at the site where tents had been pitched for travelers who preferred to camp.
A bubbly light-skinned, tall, lean lady named Lala and I had somehow managed to break the ice for some sort of friendship over shots of Jameson earlier in the day and as fate would have it, we were paired to share the room named Fox’s Weaver in the main accommodation facility. We freshened up with interludes of small talk before we joined the others around a campfire under the most-clear sky littered with bright stars and a full moon.
Popping one crown off after another, Lala and I enjoyed our beers served by this man with the most beautiful smile, Francis. He listened keenly to the orders – Lala opted for Guinness while I settled for Tusker Lite.
“The beers are not cold though, the fridge has an issue,” said the benevolent Francis – the ‘beer guy’ as many came to refer to him during the course of the night.
Our colleagues were well into more rounds of the bitter by the time Chef Emma Gonahasa beckoned us to his banquet – I won’t forget that stake, it was everything it looked, nothing short of delicious.
Flames glowed with each sweep of the cool breeze as I coiled myself in the plastic chair that held sturdy in the grass, sipping on the third bottle and watching the moon that was overhead then. I was particularly excited for spotting the Belt of Orion (the three aligned stars) again, it had been a while. My soul danced with joy, the same I got back then in Ntungamo when my brothers and I would simply watch the sky and argue over the “woman and baby in the moon.”
Save for the heat that made our room a torrid mess, I slept well. I bet Lala did too, she didn’t have puffy under-eyes when she awoke. The tent residents had the perfect balance of temperature, I don’t know about the cottage fellows – they didn’t say.
Mount Kadam and the dreamy sunrise
I am a sucker for sunsets but the sunrise over Mount Kadam had me spellbound, gazing for a minute, wishing I could freeze the moment. It’s one of those spectacles that you call an old friend to tell about. The calm, yellow ball peeks from the horizon behind Mount Kadam as early as 5:30 am, a treat for the early birds.
It’s one thing to wake up and slide blinders to welcome a new day but a whole other experience watching the golf ball morph, ever so slightly, into a full-blown sun, casting its rays across the earth as the birds chirp away in the trees. Dew glistens with a rainbow flash as it loses hold on the sheath – grass blades rustling to the direction of the wind.
“I like it here,” I said, making myself comfortable on the rock beneath a tree species I couldn’t identify.
Mount Kadam, towering at 3,068m above sea level, is a defining feature for Pian Upe. It has attracted hikers and mountain climbers to the region and blessed photographers and nature enthusiasts with snapshots that look straight out of a movie set.
Napedet Cave
The features of Pian Upe had me dazed from the constant subtle pangs of disbelief at the natural beauty they exude.
After our game drive, we turned east (as per my recollection) and the engine came to a halt a few kilometers away. On the right, a magnificent rock towered over the majorly flat savanna woodland. An easy hike up and we were ushered into a historic cave that bears rock paintings that speak of the people that once called it home.
Getting atop the cave requires not much of a skill but a good level of stamina and the view from the top is worth every calorie burnt on the way up.
“Careful, watch your step,” one of the Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers yelled as people moved about the edge of the rock, trying to get the ‘IT’ content.
Slipping off the edge was the least of my concerns, it’s the gusts of dry wind I worried about. The force with which they swept across had me re-imagining my flying dreams so I kept close to the ground. The last time I posed for a photo, my bandana flew off my head, who knew what else the wind could lift?
A rough piece of history is told of the two antagonizing groups of people who used the cave as a battle ground. This, actually, is where the Reserve derives its name Pian-Upe; Pian loosely translating to calm, good hearted people and Upe- the enemy.
Pian – a clan among the Karamojong especially the locals residing in North Eastern Uganda and Upe, a Kalenjin speaking pastoralist group believed to have originated from the Pokot tribe in Kenya. Both being staunch cattle keepers and rustlers, they staged battles at Napedet over the endless raids on each other.
The combination of the two words loosely means “friendly enemies”. The rustling has since gone down and the Reserve enjoys a somewhat harmonious co-existence with the locals. This is largely attributed to the disarmament initiative which has reduced the number of guns possessed by the civilians in the herding communities of Karamoja.
Wildlife
A range of animal species call Pian Upe home including Roan Antelopes (unique to this Reserve across Uganda), Giraffes, Leopards, Cheetahs, Kobs, Buffaloes, Water bucks, Jackson’s hartebeests, Zebras, mountain reedbucks among others. Pian Upe is famous for its big number of Ostriches that tourists anticipate to see on visits. Other bird species include but not limited to; the Secretary Bird, Abyssinian ground hornbill, Dusky turtle dove, Superb starling, and African hill babbler.
Best Season to Visit
Dry months are ideal for a visit to Pian Upe considering the nature of the roads within the park. The roads are muddy and tricky to navigate in the rainy seasons so the best time to enjoy safari drives is June through September, November and December.
The beauty of Pian Upe is that even in the dry months, the vegetation is still lush, which makes it a bit hard to spot the animals but also gives tourists the thrill of the search.
It should be noted, however, that the Reserve can be visited all year round.
The Inevitable Farewells
Our three days in Karamoja passed in an instant. One engaging activity after another, it was a good break from the usual cares of Kampala and all that’s wrong with it. The morning of our departure had a better everything; the sun shone brighter, breakfast was better, people seemed a bit nicer and the rangers who had hosted us appeared to have had a better rest.
Clicking the lock into second hold, I hauled my suitcase through the corridor, Fox’s Weaver engraving on the door stuck in my head as I walked. Yanking the grey case into the van corridor, I helped myself into the seat next to Lala’s as we waved to the men in uniform seeing us off. With the beautiful Mount Kadam skyline behind us, it was time to cement these golden memories of our time in Karamoja. Till the next adventure, cheers!
1 Comment
Is there a new years day adventure