By Barbra Leni
The bus rumbled through the night, it was nearly 8:45PM when we set off from Kampala, aboard a Perfect Coaches bus. With the road stretching endlessly ahead, I braced myself for the journey to Kanungu, a place whispered about for its wildlife, rich history, and stories. Though the ride was long and bumpy, sitting at the rear of the bus gave me a strange comfort.
We reached Kihihi by dawn, and as the first rays of sunlight broke through the sky, the fatigue of the journey began to dissipate. Ishasha, nestled on the edge of Queen Elizabeth National Park, awaited us a few hours away. Along the way, our guide Lillian Kamusiime, made sure we stopped to savor the sights. When we finally arrived in Ishasha mid-morning, I felt as though I’d been transported into a different world.
The Journey Begins: A Prelude to Ishasha
Arriving in Ishasha, the air was fresh and pure, a stark contrast to the crowded streets of Kampala. Lush acacia trees stood tall, as though they had been there forever.
The community welcomed us warmly. The scent of wood smoke mingled with the earthy aroma of fertile soil, the village had an undeniable sense of connection to its surroundings.
Lillian, shared stories about the Sacco initiatives that kept families afloat. These cooperative groups ensured stability, they were put in place to help families sustain themselves and ensure that every child attains education, particularly those in primary school.
The elders of Ishasha shared their memories of a time when animals roamed more freely, less fearful of humans. They explained how poaching had altered these dynamics, making the animals more defensive.
Ishasha is a haven for wildlife, known for its incredible diversity of species. Lillian shared fascinating stories about the unique animals that call this place home. From the famous tree-climbing lions to the colorful array of bird species.
I would describe Ishasha as a feast for the senses. Every corner felt alive, each detail telling its own story.
Embogo Lodges: A Gateway to Tranquility
Embogo Lodges became our home for the trip. Perched within the park, the lodges exuded an authentic African charm, blending seamlessly into the natural environment. The cottages, designed with eco-friendly principles, were built around trees rather than cutting them down.
The high thatched roofs ensured a cool haven even during the day, and every detail from the kikooyi and kitenge designs adorning the beds to the locally sourced materials, spoke of a deep connection to the land. The lodges felt like stepping into a living museum of African culture.
The Wild Heart of the Park
Day two brought us face-to-face with the raw beauty of Queen Elizabeth National Park. The park offered a glimpse into a world teeming with wildlife. Early that morning, we received news of a sighting in the fig trees. Rushing to the spot, we saw a lioness named Julia and her cub Hope, lounging on the branches.
The park’s fame for tree-climbing lions preceded it. We encountered herds of elephants moving, antelopes darting through the tall grass, and an array of colorful birds. Along the Ishasha River, hippos basked lazily in the water while a black-and-white colobus monkey leapt between trees which is said to be rarely sighted.
Experiencing the reserve offered so much more. Driving through the vast expanse, we also encountered multiple buffalo herds.
Lillian’s stories added depth to the experience. She spoke of the challenges and triumphs of conservation.
Rwenshama Landing Site: A Fisherman’s Paradise
The next day, we had an excursion to Rwenshama landing site, a hidden gem where the air carried the tang of salt. Rwenshama, located along the shores of Lake Edward, is a vibrant fishing community known for its unique fish species.
The Tilapia, Bagrus (Bagrid catfish), Clarias (walking catfish), Protopterus (lungfish), African Barbus (a local favorite cooked with scales on), and Mormyrus, a fish species with a distinctive pointed snout which often resides near the river banks. I was fortunate enough to taste some of them deep-fried and freshly prepared.
Life in Rwenshama is defined by its close relationship with nature. The Banyabutumbi, the community’s primary inhabitants, originally migrated from Nyamishasha within the Park. Fishing is the village’s main source of income. Yet, Rwenshama is about more than fishing; it’s about coexistence.
Buffaloes roam freely through the community. It’s not unusual to hear wild stories of people surviving encounters with wildlife. Even children grow up navigating these close interactions.
Moving through the village, I also saw occasional warthogs, and waterbucks. It was from these waterbucks that the name Rwenshama is derived.
Among Rwenshama’s many fascinating features, the sight of a church between two mosques stood out as a profound symbol. In a world often marked by religious conflict, this was deeply moving.
Before leaving, I had the opportunity to hold a 30-kilogram catfish, marveling at its size. It was a fitting finale to my experience.
The Tree that defies time
Kihihi holds a secret that locals revere: a 120-year-old tree with a tale as old as time. Legend has it that this tree journeys to Congo every night to visit its “husband,” and those who’ve tried to harm it have faced mysterious consequences. The tree stood tall, its gnarled roots and sprawling branches a living witness to history. The tree has been there since the early 1920s.
It is somewhat connected to spirituality as it is also said by the natives that there is a leopard that protects it every night.
“Ekigaali” Kihihi’s Famous Wooden Bicycles
Kihihi’s market revealed another treasure: wooden bicycles locally referred to as “ekigaali.” These eco-friendly marvels have been used since the 1980s. The bicycles are said to transport over 300 kilograms of goods in one route. These bicycles, are a lifeline for traders and farmers.
Garuga Golf Club/ Airstrip
In contrast to the rugged beauty of Ishasha and Kihihi, Garuga Golf Club and Airstrip offered a touch of sophistication. The manicured greens and serene atmosphere provided an escape. It showed the diversity that Kanungu has to offer from wild savannahs to refined leisure.
As our journey came to an end, I found myself reluctant to leave. Ishasha had woven its magic around me. Ishasha is a journey into the soul of Uganda.
I couldn’t help but reflect on how it had shattered my preconceptions. This wasn’t just a place to see tree-climbing lions; it was a tapestry of experiences. It was a destination that begged to be explored, savored, and remembered.
The air seemed to carry a whisper, an invitation to return. It’s a place where the wild meets the heart, and every story leaves a mark. Just as it did on me, perhaps it will weave its stories around you too, urging you to stay just a little longer.