Weeks leading to rainy seasons, especially for communities in Kasese District, are always a reminder of the tragedies that come along with the unforgiving torrential rains which more often than not, trigger River Nyamwamba to burst its banks.
Headlines like “Nyamwamba Bursts its Banks Again”, and “Scores Feared Dead as River Nyamwamba Floods Again” are common findings on the front pages of Uganda’s dailies and the sad faces of the victims, if not lifeless bodies of the unfortunate, evoke a familiar gut wrenching feeling many have had before.
Bodies washed ashore bearing horrific wounds, cuts, and bruises are no exception in the prime news on television, accompanied by wailing survivors, the bereaved, and hopeless onlookers. This, for many news consumers, is the infamous picture that pops up at the mention of River Nyamwamba.
To be clear, River Nyamwamba is no angel and has never claimed any halos, it bursts banks, kills people, sweeps households and hospital establishments away, it damages roads and bridges that were renovated “just the other day after a previous flooding.”
Families are torn apart and livelihoods jeopardized when River Nyamwamba rages but this is not all there is to this tourist attraction whose fire and ice sides present situations that couldn’t be any more different.
Kiwa Heritage Hot Springs
Under the bluest of skies on a blazing hot afternoon, a couple of friends and I descended the steep slope headed to the Kiwa Heritage Site, where the Kiwa hot springs draw in numerous people looking to bask in the relaxation the warm waters offer.
A black soil pathway stretches through the reed forest, occasional wooden decks erected over water streams, a quiet and peaceful trail save for footsteps and camera shutters heard as we made our way to the major pool. Shirtless torsos rest steadily on the edges of the warm water pool, a couple of legs dangle lazily in the shallow end and some fellows are almost submerged in the waters whose soothing and pain alleviating abilities many swear by.
Yes, this is no recreational or aesthetic pool; picture a large semi-clear water pond lined with stones and black earth, a snacks and beverages stand two meters away, a deejay booth next to a decades-old tree, wooden benches around the pool and elated teenagers in bright-colored bathing suits smiling for the selfies in the very center.
In the midst of all this somewhat organized chaos, there is a faint yet peculiar rumbling that peeks through when the music goes down. Water currents crashing against stones, that was my prediction.
A calm, scenic Nyamwamba
After succumbing to the convincing abilities of one of our colleagues about the distance we would trek to see River Nyamwamba, we embarked on the trail, through a banana plantation, through a forest that could use some more trees and finally to the river bank.
A beautiful miniature gorge awaited us; a zillion granules of sand in distinct hues of grey and brown line the river bed, miles of white sand couldn‘t be a better dead-ringer for my beach dreams, huge boulders rest in utmost tranquility complemented by the perfectly curved pebbles that instinctively summon the lazy pebble collector in you and the water currents- crashing against the stones create magic by merely flowing downstream.
The towering mountains on the far right give this miniature gorge a new sense of depth and naturally create a perfect spot for the sun to set as ceremoniously as it should. For a nature lover, there is nothing better than sitting by the flowing river, resting your feet on the stones beneath the currents, listening to the sound of birds chirping in the trees as the sun draws further and further into the horizon.
Water glistens with faint shades of gold, reflected by the setting sun as the wide sky above shows out with a cottony hazel, a splash of color to the dominant blue.
The adventurous individuals have the opportune moment to jump in and submerge themselves against the flow, the photography enthusiasts have a wider playing field while the laid back globetrotters can simply bask in the goodness of nature or take a walk on this infinity stretch appreciating the undisputed beauty and eternal charm of River Nyamwamba.
Clearly, two seasons present two very different experiences for tourists in Kasese and for the locals. The above paragraphs are not in any way meant to water down or dispel the gravity of the dangers that occur with weather changes around Nyamwamba, but you at least have the other side of the story. Now, are you booking that trip or not?