Many refer to it as the “Adventure Capital of East Africa”, some dot on it with the grander expression – “Africa’s Adventure Capital”, both undisputed by those who are blessed with the lifetime opportunity to visit this old industrial town, about 81km East of Uganda’s capital – Kampala.
Named “Jinja” by the local tribes Baganda and Basoga who predominantly live West and East of the River Nile respectively, the Luganda/Lusoga word loosely translates to “a stone” or “a rock”. The name was derived from a rocky spot that travelers crossing the Nile stopped at, usually asking the canoe operator to stop at the rock. The local dialect expression “nteka ku jjinja” – “leave me by the rock” over time birthed the mononym “Jinja,” now a contemporary city, her 525-metre long Source of the Nile Bridge a new marvel for tourists.
Founded in 1901 by British settlers, most of them apparently fascinated and drawn in by the findings of legendary explorers like John Hanning Speke and Richard Burton whose expeditions ignited a wider documentation of Uganda’s mesmerizing natural beauty and the bountiful attractions of the East African region as a whole, Jinja City enchants travelers not just with the booming adrenaline adventures, rich heritage, the heartbreakingly beautiful mixed race ladies endearingly referred to as “bakyotala” and of course, the source of River Nile.
Jinja satiates the wanderlust of thrill seekers through bungee jumping, white water rafting, jet boating, zip lining, quad biking, horse riding among others while casually blessing history lovers and researchers with information nuggets from the Uganda Railway Museum and numerous monumental structures. From giddying sunset boat cruises to slow fishing mornings on the Nile, and the irresistible, lively night life, Jinja is the IT destination in Uganda.
With a new adventure activity unveiled by Uganda’s Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities in collaboration with the private investors, I had yet a new reason to spend a day in Jinja as my colleagues and I re-lived our childhood bicycle riding days – this time though, on the still waters of the Nile.
Oh, its common law blasphemy to visit the Nile and not try Nile Special Lager, we didn’t want to be caught on the wrong side of it so the drive back to Kampala couldn’t be more “lit.”
February 8, 2024
I had waited long enough for my turn, counting every breath, stretching my patience to the very edge and hoping that the image in my head – water biking as I watched the sunset – wouldn’t fall prey to the unforgiving principles of time and tide.
I watched the sun recede, ever so subtly, further into the horizon, giving the big sky divergent tinges of hazel, pink and bright orange, overlapping each other to create a dreamy range, one that seemed to get my heart racing, hoping my fairytale wouldn’t go up in smoke before it even materialized.
Wishing upon the heavens to not go head bowed low in utter disappointment having not done the activity, I cheered myself on the waiting journey, engaging in small talk with a colleague, focusing on the tiny inconsequential waves that washed upon the constricted banks of the Nile River. I wanted it so bad my soul ached with every lapse of a minute.
“Patience, you can take this,” a colleague who had finished biking beckoned me to the ledge of the board as I readied for the adventure- life jacket fasted, shoes off, jeans rolled up to the calves. My insides quivered, my heart leaped, it was hard to conceal my excitement, well, I didn’t need to.
I finally had my hands on the handlebar, feet sturdy on the pedals, mind on the fiery red sunset and body finally out of tension. Pedaling backwards, I made way into the wide front, back against the sunset as I savored each second of the floating dream. This was one of those moments where my chaotic mind was completely at ease, laid back and actually living in the moment – I don’t often get this such a moment – of stillness, tranquility and peace.
I pedaled further left, buying time before I turned on my right, where God’s gift to mankind was slowly unfolding. We were four people in the waters, the last batch. Jason Derulo’s Savage Love blasted the airwaves, beats resounding in the Nile’s shallow bed. The waters were still, allowing us the best of the biking experience.
I smiled at the memory of my father teaching me how to ride a bicycle, his careful instruction to keep the eyes on the pathway, left hand on the break in case need arose but most importantly, doing it with confidence. Oh, how I miss those old times – a princess and her daddy, in a world full of dreams and possibilities, my greatest inspiration, the man whose journaling before bed ritual inspired and shaped my own writing journey that has blossomed into a beautiful career.
Sunset on the Nile – A dream Come True
I didn’t want my beautiful past to overshadow the moment, I snapped out of the foolish grin soon enough. Straining the handlebar to the right, I pedaled faster, steadying just in time to catch a glimpse of the sun that was slowly morphing into that enchanting display of color that awakens new hope in my spirit every time it graces mother earth with its appearance.
The hour was quintessentially golden, at 6:21 pm, the setting sun kissed the shimmering waters of the Nile, painting a glistening red trail that seemed to touch the horizon, taking with it, every damn care of mine, leaving me unrelentingly giddy, bound under the spell of its very charm.
I didn’t want to close my eyes, lest I miss a split second of the quiet spectacle. There had to be another way of freezing the moment to re-live it. How could a sunset be so beautiful, so full of life, so refreshing yet so elusive?
How has no scientist devised a way of stretching the length of time a sunset graces the earth?
I had no time to summon the god fathers of invention, I had a floatie of a bike keeping me exactly where I needed to be, a couple of my good friends a meter away living large on the ‘Epic Escapades MVs’, the vibrant expanse of the Nile and a sunset fairytale to live. How could I possibly not feel like an achiever?
Ride the Wave – they said
I have always been cherophobic, feeling like being too happy might invite in an equal measure of sadness. I keep it neutral, I never want to find myself overly excited, because not once, I have been over the moon but soon enough I topple, plummet back to earth with no cushion in waiting for when I hit the ground.
We were having a time of our lives in the middle of the water expanse, casually chit chatting as I imagined our beautiful silhouettes from the back side against the most epic backdrop, the sunset.
Unannounced, vicious and definitely unwanted, a wave showed up at a time when we barely had 5 minutes to wind up this hell of a good time, pack the floaties and return to our undesirable work and life routines back in the fast-paced Kampala.
Like hitting a huge hump while stuffed in a giant balloon and bouncing off unscathed only to land onto yet another obstacle, nothing could have prepared us for the wave.
A loud scream from one of my colleagues confirmed three things to me; that it was a moment we could die, that I wasn’t the only one about to shit my pants but also, if we got to the board alive, that would be a story for my grandkids to hear every Christmas. I will probably be grey-haired then, seated on the porch, watching the sunset with absolutely no regrets for the adventurous life I lived.
About Water Biking in Jinja
Launched in February 2023 by the Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities, this water biking activity is operated by a private enterprise – Epic Escapades in Jinja – at a fare of UGX 80,000 (Ugandans) for 30 minutes and US$40 for foreigners.
The site is very accessible on Crescent Road, Brisk Hotel Triangle (next to Jinja Sailing Club). The activity is very safe and unless otherwise, the bikes are engineered to not topple so safety is guaranteed, generally.
Until the next adventure, cheers!