The scorching 11am sun hangs heavy up in the bluest of skies, not one cottony cloud in near sight – the weather is quintessentially February in Northern Uganda, hot!
The flimsy shade from a khaki safari hat notwithstanding, there are beads of sweat occasionally making the trip down my spine from my generously greased scalp. There is a reason women of color get braids before vacations – thank God I didn’t hold on to the joys of relaxed hair, it would have been messier.
Apart from this shit show playing out in the torrid noon heat, my energy was vibrating on an all time high as the day’s tour guide approached from behind a line of huts, his grandson tagging at the grey trouser that had seen better days.
My colleagues and I had waited an uncomfortable while under a tree that had long rid itself of the burden of leaves, at the base of the towering hill before us. We could only hide so far from the sun.
Otuke, like many other areas in Northern Uganda, is largely flat. Any step on raised ground gives even a better view of the recklessly vast lands, the receding horizon and the unavoidable mirage that temporarily makes the sight unreal.
Otuke Hills – Home of the Luo Post Abyssinia
Migrations can be a gamble with far high stakes but when the Luo kissed Abyssinia goodbye in the 1500s, they made it to Northern Uganda through Sudan and settled in what is now Otuke District in Lango sub-region.
Some of the reasons for this mass movement were; natural hazards such as flooding, over population, human and animal diseases, and internal conflicts among others.
The Luo are linguistically and ethnically related Nilotic groups known to inhabit areas of Egypt, Sudan, South Sudan, Ethiopia, Northern Uganda, Eastern Congo (DRC), Western Kenya, and the Mara Region of Tanzania.
A one Professor George Oming, resident of Otuke whom we chanced upon at his home right at the base of the hill, says the Luo groups that migrated to and stayed in Otuke included among others the Langi, Kumam, Teso and Karimojong.
The groups in Kenya include; the Nandi, Masai, Usuk and the Turkana. Some groups were left in Ethiopia including the Dime. Once in Uganda, the Teso and Lango remained with Jie and settled in the Otuke hills. After a conflict, however, the group also disbanded and the Jie moved further East to Abim, leaving the otuke place largely vacant.
“According to our forefathers, Abyssinia was a fertile land where they could grow their staple food, millet and also keep cattle. In fact, some of them referred to the place as Eden – the garden of Eden. However, it looks like the major reason for the group’s migration was an internal conflict and the onset of slave trade,” Prof. Oming said.
A Solace from Bantu & Karamojong Raids
Otuke Hills was not an ordinary place of settlement, it was a strategic watchtower for the new entrants. Stronger ethnic groups such as the Bantu and the Karamojong had settled in the surrounding areas, and competition for land was a threat they so badly wanted to do away with.
“Our forefathers faced attacks and raids from the groups that had already established themselves around the area. So, the men took turns keeping watch from the top of the hills so that in case of any approaching enemies, they would alert their families to run to safety,” says Omiji Fidele, a community tour guide.
Fidele adds that during rampant attacks, the families would move up to the rocky hills and lay low till the situation normalized at the base.
Ever-giving Rock Crevice
Wonders never cease to happen and especially for the most vulnerable. Such is a water-filled rock crevice up in the Otuke Hills which doesn’t run out irrespective of the long harsh dry seasons.
“During the times when they couldn’t move down the hill to get water, our people relied on this tiny crevice for water to drink, cook and feed their animals too. It never dries even when the dry season stretches on to more than half a year,” Fidele narrates.
It’s a gift that keeps giving! Its waters are cool and refreshing. Dipping my hands right in was such a relief I wished my body could fit right in, it couldn’t, even if I sold my soul to the enchanting lands of Lango.
Missing the bread doesn’t mean we can’t lick crumbs though, so I sat me down on a fiery rock that had charged since morning, looked to the heavens and thanked the higher powers for sending rescue before I dialed emergency.
I am not Langi by any degree of DNA or affiliation but in that moment when water touched my steaming face and whatever else was in the way of it, I felt the most sense of gratitude for this water source that doesn’t even span a meter wide.
Mark of Settlement
At the base of the hill ranges, a large flat rock bears dips (now filled with murky waters or dry leaves depending on the season) which are said to have been cereal grinding points.
These marks of settlement date back to the 1500s.
Cereal grinding was a communal activity done by women, evidenced by the numerous dips on the larger rock which could accommodate many participants at a go.
The most common cereals ground with stone are sorghum and millet – a staple food for the Luo people.
Hill Consecrated as a Prayer Mountain
On top of the less steep hill, a white monument erected by the church of Uganda, catches the hikers eye.
Mr. Fidele says the monument was installed following the consecration of the hill as a prayer mountain center for the Diocese of Lango.
The foundation stone was laid by the Right Rev. John Charles Odur on 29th November, 2016. Since then, people gather once a year to make their submissions to God.
“About 300 people participate in the annual prayers,” Fidele adds.