Chebonet Falls: A True Reward for Kapkwai Forest Hikers

Uganda is blessed with thousands of mesmerizing waterfalls, a big number hidden in the Elgon Region. Each is a scenic spectacle and then there is Chebonet Falls, deep within the Kapkwai Forest inside Mount Elgon National Park – a sight to behold.

It’s not one of those waterfalls you drive close by, admire and take a few shots before you decide on pulling out a wet suit or skinny dipping in the pool, no, it’s a gem you trek 4 hours for, a hike that’s as rewarding as it’s daring.

Eons-old trees dominate the primary part of the Kapkwai Forest, their buttress roots holding sturdy like pillars, the greenery so rich, its beauty undisputed. Large mushrooms occasionally tower over the overly short flora like a light house, breaking the rather calming monotony.

Each step is commendable progress along the narrow footpaths, fallen trees make for undesirable huddles and giant rocks call for clumpy boots, if hikers are to succeed.

An hour in and the silence is deafening, save for a few chirps from the Tacazze sunbirds in the distance, harmonized by the Black-collared Apalis, a species endemic to Mount Elgon.

Three hours in and one is ushered into the historic Kapkwai caves formed as a result of volcanic activity in the Elgon region; tales of the Bamasaba and their culture are told here as unholy crickets roam the roofs of dark hollows. Bats will fly by to announce their presence too.

Next in the line of rewards is the forest canopy view point where hikers get to relax on large rocks overlooking the dreamy green stretch sprawling to the horizon. The view couldn’t be more beautiful.

And then the descent begins, slippery spots and wuthering chills, wooden staircases and make-shift bridges are all to be expected, but Chebonet Falls is calling in the distance and heed you must.

Unlike the outpouring volumes of the magnificent Mahoma or Wanale Falls, Chebonet is more of a shrill than a roar. Like heavy rain running off new steel iron roofing, hitting more of shale than marble ground.

Every inch closer to the enchanting shrill feels like walking down the eerie alley yet the anticipation builds by the minute. 

One more wooden staircase and a glimpse of the white cascade is in half sight, inviting as it can be. 

The falls is part of River Chebonet which originates from Mount Elgon. The River has created numerous waterfalls, one inside Kapkwai Forest. This is accessed through the Sipi Trail.

If there was anything like a weird fetish for me, it would be staring at white waters flowing off a leafy ridge under a not-so-bright sky inside a rainforest whose evergreen trees remind me of Avatar 1. Pristine, tranquil, devoid of human and industrial noises – nature in its purest form. 

Then a thought rushed in, so subtle I smiled at the rush, “this is where they get those seemingly unreal images on the front pages of classic postcards.”

Suddenly my childhood memories flooded my mind, I remembered the greeting cards I received from my German pen pal. Letternet, for those of you who are too young for this stuff, was the unwavering link for that service. In fact, it was referred to as the “world’s largest pen pal club” then. 

I would have paid a hefty sum to keep around and bask in the joys of nature but it’s not called a rainforest for no reason. Before I could take it all in fully, the ranger guide was warning of the (literally) incoming heavy showers.

READ: Inside UWA’s Conservation Strategies for Mt Elgon National Park

One moment it was bright enough for some orgasmic nature shots, the next I had to extend my camera exposure and as if elements couldn’t change any more drastically, before we made it out of the waterfalls clearing, the skies abated and the long trek back to the reception was not without slips and near falls as I navigated the wet path.

Thank God for the sturdy boots and somewhat heavy jacket, I made it back in better shape than expected. 

Captured on long exposure, Chebonet waterfalls is a picture that will always be burned at the back of your mind, a memory like no other, a hike you would dare all over again just to bask in the stillness of this flowing bliss.